Metolius Master Cam

Rated: 4 by 28 reviews.

Oregon Mountain Community

With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why add a single-stem cam to their line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Each individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam’s wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU’s narrow head widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. Metolius set out to make the finest single-stem unit we possibly could and the Master Cam is the result. The Master Cam combines a nice, flexy cable with an ultra-narrow head for hard aid or free climbing. Since they invented the CNC milled cam-stop, they naturally applied them to Master Cams. They also joined their silky-smooth trigger assembly with an ergonomic thumb piece to provide precise control over placement and retraction. The longer body affords additional reach when top-stepping or stretching for that hard-to-get placement. The Range Finder system also provides critical placement feedback for those who need it. Master Cams are hand-built right here in Metolius' Bend, Oregon shop. Each one is thoroughly inspected and every unit is tested to 5 kN. Master Cams are CE and UIAA certified.

Features:

  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075 T-6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Greater Holding Power!
  • Machined cam stops
  • Molded thumb pieceQ3 mm Monster slings webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement.
  • Sizes #00-#6

Rock/Creek Outfitters

The Master Cams by Metolius are their first single stemmed cam they have made due to all the different styles of cracks you can encounter when climbing.  Based on the idea that a single stemmed cam can fit better into awkward cracks and fissures than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain funky placements. 
The Master Cam offers climbers a narrow head and flexy cable piece that is made especially for hard aid or free climbing, and its silky smooth trigger action allows for quick placements and removal.  The longer body affords additional reach when top-stepping or stretching for that hard-to-get placement, and the Range Finder on the cam lobes you get a quick look assessment to whether or not the piece will be effective in its placement.
Each cam is hand-built in Bend, Oregon and is thoroughly inspected and every unit is tested to 5 kN.  Master Cams are CE and UIAA certified.

Features:

  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075 T-6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Made in the USA
  • Molded thumb pieceQ3 mm Monster slings webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force, Machined cam stops
  • Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement.
  • Sizes #00-#6

ProLite Gear

The flexible cable and ultra-narrow head of the Metolius Master Cam is ideal for hard aid or free climbing. With a trigger assembly that is slides smoothly and an ergonomic thumb piece, the Master Cam provides precise control over placement and retraction. When top-stepping or stretching for hard-to-reach placements, the longer body of the Master Cam gives additional reach and the built-in Range Finder System provides critical placement feedback for those who need it. Colored the same as the rest of Metolius' cams. Every unit is tested to 5 kN and are CE and UIAA certified.

Specifications
sizecolordimensionsstrengthweightPrice
*00gray0.34 - 0.47”5 kN2.2 oz.$54.95
*0purple0.39 - 0.59”5 kN2.3 oz.$54.95
*1blue0.49 - 0.71”8 kN2.4 oz.$54.95
2 yellow 0.62 - 0.89”10 kN2.5 oz.$54.95
3 orange 0.74 - 1.04”10 kN2.9 oz.$59.95
4 red 0.93 - 1.32”10 kN3.2 oz.$59.95
5 black 1.09 - 1.56”10 kN3.5 oz.$59.95
6 green 1.28 - 1.89”10 kN3.9 oz.$59.95

*Range Finder color indicator only applies to sizes #2 - #6

Features:

  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075-T6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Hand built, inspected and individually tested to ½ its rated strength in Bend, Oregon
  • Machined cam stops
  • Molded thumb pieceQ3 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Range Finder tells you at a glance if you’ve chosen the right size cam for the placement
  • Sizes #00-#6

Moosejaw (Spring 2010)

With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why would Metolius add a single-stem cam to theirline? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Eachindividual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam's wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU's narrow headwidths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than theU-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. They set out to make the finest single-stem unitwe possibly could and the Master Cam is the result.

Features:

  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075-T6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Hand built, inspected and individually tested to 1/2 its rated strength in Bend, Oregon
  • Machined cam stops
  • Molded thumb pieceQ3 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement

SummitHut.com

With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCUs, Offsets, Fat Cams and Supercams, why add a single-stem cam to our line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing environment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc . . . Each individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam’s wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU’s narrow head widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. We set out to make the finest single-stem unit we possibly could and the Master Cam is the result.

Features:

  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075 T-6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Greater Holding Power
  • Machined cam stops
  • Molded thumb pieceQ3 mm Monster slings webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement.

REI

Whether climbing aid or free, you're sure to find the placement you need with the new Metolius Master Cams.

  • Single-stem design allows cams to fit into tight spots; flexible cable reduces walking and enables placement in horizontal cracks
  • Long body provides excellent reach when top-stepping in aiders and stretching for hard-to-reach placements
  • Narrow head enables secure placements in pin scars and small, uneven cracks
  • Ergonomic thumb piece creates excellent control while placing and removing cams
  • Range Finder markings eliminate guess work: Green Zone for go, Yellow Zone for caution and Red Zone for stop!
  • Lightweight Dyneema nylon slings are color-coded for quick, easy identification
  • Hand-built and tested by Metolius in Bend, Oregon
  • Size 00 Gray = 8.5 - 12mm / 5 kN / 62g
  • Size 0 Purple = 10 - 15mm / 5 kN / 65g
  • Size 1 Blue = 12.5 - 18mm / 8 kN / 68g
  • Size 2 Yellow = 15.5 - 22.5mm / 10 kN / 70g
  • Size 3 Orange = 18.5 - 26.5mm / 10 kN / 82g
  • Size 4 Red = 23.5 - 33.5mm / 10 kN / 90g
  • Size 5 Black = 28 - 39.5mm / 10 kN / 99g
  • Size 6 Green = 32.5 - 48mm / 10 kN / 110g


Altrec

The flexible cable and ultra-narrow head of the Metolius Master Cam is ideal for hard aid or free climbing. With a trigger assembly that is slides smoothly and an ergonomic thumb piece, the Master Cam provides precise control over placement and retraction. When top-stepping or stretching for hard-to-reach placements, the longer body of the Master Cam gives additional reach and the built-in Range Finder System provides critical placement feedback for those who need it. Colored the same as the rest of Metolius' cams. Every unit is tested to 5 kN and are CE and UIAA certified.

Features:

  • 7075-T6 aluminum CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsQ3 mm (0.51") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Hand built, inspected and individually tested to 1/2 rated strength in Bend, Oregon
  • Machined cam stops
  • Molded thumb piece
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement
  • Sizes #00-#6

USOutdoor.com

With the most versatile offering of cams on the planet, Ultralight Power Cams, TCU's, Fat Cams and Supercams, why add a single cam to the Metolius line? The reason is that there is an infinite number of variables in the climbing envrionment: hard rock, soft rock, parallel cracks, flared cracks, etc... Each individual cam style excels at a certain set of variables. The Fat Cam;s wide lobes greatly improve protection in soft rock while the TCU's narrow head widths greatly enhance placement versatility. The biggest advantages of the single-stem unit are: they will fit into certain placements better than the U-shaped body and the flexible, single cable reduces leverage to minimize walking in certain placements. Metolius set out to make the finest single-stem unit they possible could and the Master Cam is the result.

Features:

  • CE and UIAA certified
  • CNC milled cam-stop
  • Ergonomic thumb piece
  • Longer body
  • Range finder system
  • Tested to 5kN
  • Ultra-narrow head width

Mountain Gear

Metolius's Master Cam is just that - a master of cam technology. For hard aid or free climbing, this flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width is ready for anything. Range Finder technology tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size for the placement.

Features:

  • CE and UIAA certified for safety
  • Get a wide range of placements from the single-stem design with an ultra-narrow head and a Range Finder that helps you to determine the right cam size for your placement
  • Hand-built and individually tested by Metolius in Bend, Oregon
  • Place protection with ease using the CNC milled cam-stops, the smooth trigger assembly and molded, ergonomic thumb piece
  • Rely on the ultra-strong and durable 13 mm Monster Sling webbing and tubing that are color-coded for easy identification

Eastern Mountain Sports (EMS)

The Metolius Master Cam combines a nice, flexy cable with an ultra-narrow head for hard aid or free climbing. Spotless design includes a silky-smooth trigger assembly with an ergonomic thumb piece to provide precise control over placement and retraction.

Features:

  • CE/UIAA certified
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded camsW075 T-6 aluminum
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
  • Greater holding power every single unit is tested to 5kN
  • Machined cam stopsQ3 mm Monster slings webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Molded thumb piece for better prescision placement
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Ranger Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement
  • The longer body affords additional reach when stretching for that hard-to-get placement

Campmor

Key Features:
  • A flexible, single stem unit with an ultra-narrow head width for hard aid or free climbing
  • Molded thumb piece
  • 13 mm (0.51"") Monster Sling webbing (36% Dyneema/64% nylon)
  • Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement (not available on sizes below #2)
  • Optimized cam angle for more outward force
  • Machined cam stops
  • Color-coded sewn slings and tubing for easy identification on a big rack
  • CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
  • 7075-T6 aluminum
  • CE/UIAA certified
  • Hand built, inspected and individually tested to « its rated strength in Bend, Oregon.


TahoeMountainSports.com

Metolius Master Cam 5 is a flexible, single-stem camming device for protecting or aiding hand cracks
Range Finder markings help you choose the right cam for every placement
Narrow head profile fits
Molded thumb piece for easy handling
Cam angle is optimized for more outward force
13mm Monster Sling webbing made with 36 percent Dyneema and 64 percent nylon
Color-coded sewn slings and tubing allows you to grab the right cam quickly
CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
Made from 7075-T6 aluminum
Hand built, inspected and individually tested to 5 kN


Backcountry.com

The Metolius Master Cam's narrow head profile and flexible single-stem design helps it place securely in little granite pods and pin scars where other cams can't fit. The ergonomic thumb loop helps trad climbers fire in quick placements, and it provides aid climbers a second clip-on point to squeeze another couple inches of extra height. Of course, the Master Cam includes Metolius' signature CNC milled cam stops to maintain full strength if the lobes umbrella in a flaring pocket.

Axles:Single
Cam Lobes:4
Cam Stops:Yes
Color:black
Dimensions:Gray - 0.34 - 0.47"; Purple - 0.39 - 0.59"; Blue - 0.49 - 0.71"; Yellow - 0.62 - 0.89"; Orange - 0.74 - 1.04"; Red - 0.93 - 1.32"; Black - 1.09 - 1.56"; Green - 1.28 - 1.89"
Expansion range:8.5 - 48 millimeters
Manufacturer Warranty:1 Year
Protection Color:Red
Range:See sizing chart
Range (mm):8.5-12 (Size 00); 10-15 (Size 0); 12.5-18 (Size 1); 15.5-22.5 (Size 2); 18.5-26.5 (Size 3); 23.5-33.5 (Size 4); 28-39.5 (Size 5); 32.5-48 (Size 6)
Recommended Use:Trad climbing, aid climbing
Sizing:Click on Sizing Chart for more information on each cams strength, etc.
Stem:Single
Strength:Gray - 5 kN; Purple - 5 kN; Blue - 8 kN; Yellow - 10 kN; Orange - 10 kN; Red - 10 kN; Black - 10 kN; Green - 10 kN
Strength (kN):5 (Size 00); 5 (Size 0); 8 (Size 1); 10 (Size 2); 10 (Size 3); 10 (Size 4); 10 (Size 5); 10 (Size 6)
Weight:Gray - 2.2 oz.; Purple - 2.3 oz.; Blue - 2.4 oz.; Yellow - 2.5 oz.; Orange - 2.9 oz.; Red - 3.2 oz.; Black - 3.5 oz.; Green - 3.9 oz.
Weight (Grams):90 gr.
Weight (g):62 (Size 00); 65 (Size 0); 68 (Size 1); 70 (Size 2); 82 (Size 3); 90 (Size 4); 99 (Size 5); 110 (Size 6)

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Metolius Master Cam Reviews Summary:

RatingNumber
of Reviews
56
417
34
21
10

Positive Reviews:

Metolius Master Cam - Great

Rating:*****

I bought a few of these cams last year to augment my older set of CCH Aliens. I've only used the blue and orange sizes (#1 and #3) so far, and they are very similar to their predecessor. As before, they have an internal spring which gives them a narrow head width. The action is pretty smooth, but maybe has more resistance than many other cams. The thumb loop is a generous size, and is easy to clip a biner into when aiding. I've been psyched for the kevlar cord in the cam heads, because the thin wire used in Aliens always got bent in weird directions, making the action much worse. My only gripe is the color coding. I think they are matched to the Metolius TCUs instead of the CCH Aliens (which probably makes sense). This gets confusing when having both on the same rack. But if you already have TCUs, then this would be a good feature.

Peter Gram at Backcountry.com on 02/02/2009

Pretty good, but...

Rating:****
Very nice cam with usual bomber Metolius quality. Sizes consistent with other Metolius cams, so that's a plus if you're used to their other gear. Flexible stem is handy.

My gripes are that one of mine became a fixed piece when a trigger wire (made of kevlar) became detached, and that the range finder can trick you into setting them a bit too tight (note that the green range exists all the way to when the cam lobes are completely bottomed out) if you're new to trad climbing. Other, more experienced types will probably be comfortable placing them without paying attention to the "range finder".

That said, they're a nice piece, and after reporting my loss to Metolius due to the trigger failure I had a new one sent to me right away, as there was an initial batch that was faulty. Since that incident, I've had no problem with them and I rely on them regularly.
Portlandclmbr at REI on 07/07/2008

excellent cam

Rating:*****
the first master cam i bought was the #2 since the #2 tcu was a favorite part of my alpine rack. i was hoping the small amount of extra weight would be made up for with the stability of a 4 lobed cam.

when i first got the cam home and compared it to my other cams i was a little scared because of the narrow cam lobes.

the first time i placed the piece i was excited with how solid it felt. but the small lobes still freaked me out a bit. anyway, to make a long story short, i've taken a few falls on mastercams and i love them. they are lightweight, study and hold falls well.

i'd recommend these for free climbing over a tcu. yes, the tcu a bit lighter, but i thing the benefits far outweigh the small weight increase.
tsuyoshi at REI on 05/05/2009

Great for the price!

Rating:****

As a few other reviewers have stated - the trigger is the biggest problem with these cams. If you load the unit in a horizontal position the trigger cables get super worked, hopefully this will be fixed soon! But, I have hammered on them for a while now and they still have great action. The narrow 4 cam head is great and fits snug in tight spots, I think a little better then a BD C3 of a comparable size, plus they cost way less than the BD units! Super light, you will notice a difference from other units, trust me. I found the #4,#5 & #6 to be kinda floppy and don't use them much. The smaller units have replaced my Aliens and my C3's! Overall great value, get some!

Pat Goodman at Backcountry.com on 03/25/2009

Solid piece on any climber's rack!

Rating:****
These cams are great, and well worth the money. The single stem design is a welcome change to the usual "U" shaped Metolius cams. These cams sit proudly next to my C4's, and I prefer them over aliens. The stem is extremely flexible, and these cams work in horizontal placements well. The trigger is a little stiffer than the popular C4's, but it is still very smooth. The range finder is OK, but I find myself ignoring it most of the time mainly because I can tell if a placement is good or not without it. These cams sit proudly next to my C4's, and I prefer them over aliens. All in all, this cam is a must for any trad climber.
Matt at Moosejaw (Spring 2010) on 01/21/1910

Excelent cam BUT...

Rating:****
I really like these. I have one to match every size I have in the TCU. They're really when you don't need the TCU to fit into the smaller constrictions. The four lobes and flexi stem make me feel good throughout a wide variety of placements. The only downside Ive seen so far is that the expanding action gets really slow if they get dusty or chalky. I mean... get any cam dirty and it's going to suffer but it seems more so with the Master Cam. They're not as rugged as some of us may like (I think it's mostly the kevlar triggers) Still I would highly recommend at least checking them out. Definitely money well spent.
James at Moosejaw (Spring 2010) on 01/14/1910

Metolius stout and quality.

Rating:*****

The very first batch of had a few which apparently got grease on the kevlar holes prior to gluing. The kevlar is fine. Send it back to Metolius and they will make it right for you. I've been climbing on mine for a couple of months now and they are great. I have two sets of Alien Hybrids and there is no comparison on the quality - the Master Cams are burly, well made, and function perfect. Is there still a rare time when I pull out one of the Alien Hybrids - sure, just until Metolius shifts Offset production from the Ultralight TCUs to the Master Cams.

extcontact1262640 at Backcountry.com on 06/24/2008

Great product for the price.

Rating:****
I've used my master cams one to three days week for trad and setting a top-rope. The action on these cams are very good. They place and remove well. If you don't what to pay the price of C3's or you can't find the aliens that your liking for the master cam should be your cam of choice. The only drawback is that the trigger rotates around the single stem about a quarter turn. Which was only a problem when the lobes got snaged on my rack a few times.
Jay at Moosejaw (Spring 2010) on 04/29/2009

Better-looking than Aliens, but not as flexy

Rating:****
These are great cams. They're not as bendable as the CCH Aliens even though they have a single-stem design. In terms of usable camming range, the Black Diamond C4s have them beat and it takes about 5 of these to cover the same range as 4 of the C4s, so in a sense they require more accurate placement. They are manufactured exceedingly well and feel completely solid in the rock. The trigger action is a little tight at first but gets smoother with time.
Jonathan at Moosejaw (Spring 2010) on 05/26/2009

Good Cams

Rating:****

I've got the #1 and #2, and I like them. The action isn't as stiff as on C3s, which I prefer, and the unit is flexible without being floppy or having a bigass sheath on it. They place solidly, more solidly than TCU's, in my opinion, by virtue of having 4 lobes. Metolius reports the range to be exactly the same as TCUs, and Mastercams are only marginally heavier - a tradeoff I'll take for single stem flexibility and 4-lobe stability.

Aaron Martinuzzi at Backcountry.com on 02/27/2009
Show all positive reviews...

Negative Reviews:

Disapointment

Rating:**

I was so stoked about the new "safe aliens" then I pulled the trigger and the kevlar cord came unglued from the cam head. Not unsafe- rather unusable. If they only had metal trigger wires they would be perfect. Don't bother unless you want to lose them on your first climb. Expect to see these stuck everywhere this summer.
Bummer.

lukelydiar565524 at Backcountry.com on 05/27/2008

Neutral Reviews:

Just okay

Rating:***

Well, I have put a set of these to the test all summer (5 days a week for 6 months), and the verdict is they are just okay. They have reduced range from traditional TCUs making them a little less easy to place. The triggers get very worked by any placement other than pure vertical. I have taken a few falls on each of them, and they don't seem to ever work quite the same after that, but I usually have to tweak them and lube them up to make them work right again.

I was a devout user of aliens forever and I too wanted to find a more bomber replacement. They are pretty good, but not quite there yet. BD C3's are way burlier and fit into the funky spots a bit easier.

Evan Stevens at Backcountry.com on 12/03/2008

smaller sizes = good

Rating:***

As others have said, the quality on these is superb. They look/feel solid and the action is a little stiff, but feels right...until you break out the #5 or #6. Then things get wobbly. Especially with the #6. It's kinda comical or cartoon like when you reach up to place it, pull the trigger, and it flops to the right. You re-adjust, pull again...and it flops to the left. Think trying to push like polls of a magnet together. It seems like this is due to the length of the stem.The #1 to #4 feel great, so I would just go with the smaller sizes of these cams. I only have #1-#6, so I don't know about the 0 sizes, but they should be fine if they're anything like #1-3.

ahab at Backcountry.com on 10/22/2009

Good/Bad

Rating:***

Well I love the way they fit and I actually have found the trigger to be just fine. The action is very smooth and I prefer a four lobe cam in most small placements. The down side for me was that my partner took a small fall on the purple 0 and the mill stop sheared completely off and the piece blew. Was it because of the way he placed it?? I dont think these are rated to be placed as a passive piece and maybe he had it under cammed but the description might have you believe that the mill stop could handle a fall while placed passivley, which I never wanted to do anyways. I'd be intereseted to know if this happened to anybody else.

Brandon at Backcountry.com on 04/20/2009

Mixed Feelings

Rating:***

I got a 0 and 00. I like having 4 lobes in such a narrow head, as well as Metolius quality. Ooutstanding fit and finish. I choose these smallest units over my black and blue Aliens. And they make a great complement to the smallest C3s. Beyond these sizes, however, I'll stick with TCUs and Aliens. The trigger mechanism is a bit over engineered and has too little slop. A bit more extra trigger cord would allow the lobes to function more independently, creating safer placements. And the cable to the trigger bar is poorly placed. It will kink when loaded over a sharp edge, at least in the blue and yellow sizes.

Scott Gilliam at Backcountry.com on 02/12/2009